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The Howard winners are (front row, from left) Natalia Ciolko, Julia Wong, Amanda Peterka, Nicole Norfleet and Deanna Dent; (middle) School of Journalism’s Jessica Gall; (back row, from left) McKenna Ewen, Matt Negrin, James Baetke and Hudson Lockett.

Multimedia Howard Trip Slideshow

Winners of the Roy W. Howard National Collegiate Reporting Competition spent 13 days touring of South Korea and Japan.

IU School of Journalism Dean Brad Hamm and Director of Experiential Learning Jessica Gall accompanied the nine students from universities around the nation to Seoul, South Korea and the Japanese cities of Kyoto, Kobe and Tokyo. Sponsored by the Scripps Howard Foundation, the program sends winners to news organizations in both countries as they explore journalism in other cultures.

Below is a trip diary of their day-by-day adventures. For additional reflections, check out the students’ blog.

June 26	June 25	June 24
June 23	June 22	June 21
June 20	June 19	June 18
June 17	June 15-16	June 14

June 26

Photo by Jessica Gall

The Roy Howard winners each received a medal during a dinner celebrating the trip. From left are McKenna Ewen, Amanda Peterka, Matt Negrin, Hudson Lockett, James Baetke, Julia Wong, Natalia Ciolko, Nicole Norfleet and Deanna Dent.

Assembling one last time in Tokyo, the Roy Howard group met in the hotel lobby at 8 a.m. then made their way through Tokyo Station to catch the 9 a.m. Narita Express, a non-stop one-hour ride to Tokyo’s Narita Airport.

There, they had to say sayonara to their Japanese guide, Hiromi Sumiyoshi, before going through security and riding a tram to Gate 96 to catch Japan Airlines Flight 10 back to Chicago.

The flight went smoothly and landed exactly on time, 9:30 a.m. CST, with one of the fastest imaginable trips through immigration and baggage anyone in the group had ever seen in O’Hare Airport. They took a hotel shuttle the O’Hare Hampton Inn, napped for a few hours, then returned to the O’Hare Hilton for a dinner reception with Scripps Howard Foundation president Mike Philipps and Roy Howard’s granddaughter, Pam Howard.

Dean Hamm recapped some of the trip and its most valuable lessons while the students received medals for their achievements and also recounted their most memorable moments. Those moments ranged from visiting the DMZ, going from an ancient palace to a "house of the future" within a few blocks of one other and the visit to the famous Zen Rock Garden to the hospitality and kindness of the Koreans and Japanese people.

Despite the jet lag, the group had a good time reminiscing about the life-changing experience they had just concluded. Tomorrow, all will disperse to their homes or summer internships, yet they will collectively carry with them the invaluable lessons of cultural exchange that can only be seen and felt in person. The aim of the Roy Howard National Collegiate Reporting Competition that those lessons will not be found just on blogs, Facebook or photo galleries, but also will live on through the students’ reporting, outreach and open-mindedness as global citizens.

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June 25

Photo by Jessica Gall

The Howard winners visited the offices of Asahi Shimbun, Japan’s second largest newspaper with a circulation of eight million. Top row, from left, are James Baetke, McKenna Ewen, Matt Negrin and Deanna Dent. Bottom row, from left, are Amanda Peterka, Hudson Lockett, Nicole Norfleet, Julia Wong and Natalia Ciolko.

The last full day in Tokyo was a melting pot of history, culture, cuisine, media and exploration for the Roy Howard group. It started with a brief talk about Roy Howard’s legacy and the four core values he tried to instill in his newsrooms across the country.

The first was the need to get out of that newsroom in order to get the real story. In 1931, Howard went all the way to Tokyo to interview Emperor Hirohito as he knew that talking people face-to-face is the best way to get a story.

Dean Hamm said Howard’s second value was for reporters to instill human characteristics in their subjects by praising as well as scolding when necessary.

A third important tenant of Howard’s reporting philosophy was to be a citizen of one’s community in order to gain a deeper context in which to place one’s stories.

The fourth value is the one the students are currently embracing: Be a citizen of the world. Howard regarded World War I and II stories as “local” during a time when no one else viewed world events that way. To him, more local attention to international issues would better serve the whole world.

After learning more about Howard and his work, the group took a train to the Tsukiji fish market, the world’s largest wholesale fish and seafood market. There, the students explored the narrow allies where fishermen peddled everything from dried fish flakes and sardines to wasabi and cooking utensils.

Later, the group converged on a sushi restaurant and had one last group meal in Japan before walking to the headquarters of Asahi Shimbun, the country’s second largest newspaper with a circulation of over eight million (four times that of America’s largest paper, USA Today).

At Asahi, the group watched an informational video about the companies reporting procedures, toured the printing press, dispatch room and the newsroom. They learned that before the advent of modern communications technology, Asahi depended heavily on the use of carrier pigeons and had a pigeon roost on its old building.

After the tours, the group sat down for a question and answer session with two of Asahi’s veteran journalists, Toshiaki Miura, an editorial writer and former Washington correspondent, and Takeshi Go Kawasaki, senior researcher for Asahi’s Institute of Journalism and also a former Washington correspondent for the paper.
The two noted differences they see between Japanese and American media, notably that the news media have a higher level of prestige and a stronger following in Japan than in the U.S., even though freedom of speech comes from Japan’s U.S.-written constitution and is much newer than the 18th century American decree.

Photo by Jessica Gall

With Dean Hamm’s coaching and with their cameras snapping, the winners prepared to eat the freshest possible sushi and sashimi at the Tsukiji fish market.

Miura noted that while he was in Washington, he felt a great responsibility to report back to his countrymen because "a journalist, no matter how independent he wants to be, has his country on his back." Miura was in Washington during both the 9/11 attacks and the start of the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. According to Miura, the Japanese are interested in U.S. politics because they feel strong cultural ties to the U.S. and also know that the what happens in the U.S. will affect the rest of the world.

"We jokingly say that we should have a vote," Miura told the students before mentioning how closely everyone followed the primary contest between Senators Obama and Clinton and how the Japanese are unsure if a Republican or Democrat will be better for U.S.-Japanese relations.

Eventually the group had to let the reporters get back to work. At that point, the students were free to spend the rest of the afternoon and night soaking up as much as Tokyo as possible before catching the Narita Express at 8 a.m. in the next morning to begin the journey back home.

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June 24

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Howard winners with Dean Brad Hamm (far left) and Jessica Gall, experiential learning director (far right) at the Imperial Palace.

The first full day in Tokyo began with casual walk to the Imperial Palace, where Roy Howard had once interviewed the Emperor of Japan, the first person to ever do so.

Most of the palace and palace grounds survived the bombings that destroyed a majority of Tokyo during World War II and are surrounded by greenery and water.

After viewing the palace and learning from Dean Hamm about the history of the place and Howard’s visit to Japan, the group ventured by train to Asakusa and the famous Senso-ji Temple dedicated to the Buddhist goddess of Mercy, Kannon. The Temple is a replica of the original built in the seventh century that was destroyed during World War II bombings.

Nearby, the group ate lunch and shopped for souvenirs before moving onto Akihabara, the electronics district of Tokyo. From there, the group had free time the rest of the evening to explore the gigantic city and all it has to offer.

Wednesday will shift back to a focus on media, including a tour of the Asahi Shinbun newspaper, the second largest in Japan.

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June 23

Photo by Jessica Gall

Japanese broadcast journalists (far left and far right) shared food and discussion with Howard winners (second from left to right) James Baetke, Deanna Dent and Julia Wong at MBS Headquarters in Osaka.

The last day in Osaka continued the rainy trend, yet at this point in the trip, all are adept at using umbrellas and the fancy plastic umbrella baggers found at the entrance to most stores and restaurants in Korea and Japan.

The morning included a quick trip to the famous Osaka Castle for some good photo opps before heading downtown to visit Mainichi Broadcasting System (MBS). The regional television station hosted the students to a question and answer session with four of its reporters, followed by a lunch and more time to speak one-on-one with the reporters.

Students explored differences between American and Japanese media in areas from hiring practices to election coverage. The Japanese reporters tended to think that American television stations sensationalize the news, while also fearing that their own product is becoming more "variety show" than the news they grew up with. After the meal and conversation, the students were treated to a tour of the newsroom, editing room and graphic design area.

After the visit to MBS, the group took a trip to the gigantic Hanshin department store to purchase Hanshin Tigers (the local baseball team) souvenirs before scurrying to catch the bullet train, or Shinkansen, to Tokyo. The train took only two and a half hours to make the long journey. Most days, one can see Mt. Fuji in the distance while riding the train, but again, the rainy season got in the way of that.

The group checked into the Hotel Metropolitan Marunouchi directly adjacent to Tokyo Station. Luckily for all, Tokyo Station had a wide variety of restaurants so it was easy to find a place to eat dinner without getting lost the winding metropolis of Tokyo. Tomorrow the group will start the day with visit to the Imperial Palace and then will check out some cultural activities before making another media visit later in the week.

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June 22

Photo by Jessica Gall

The winners posed in front of the famous red Kobe Port tower before exploring the city. From left are Deanna Dent, Matt Negrin, Nicole Norfleet, Julia Wong, James Baetke, Amanda Peterka, Hudson Lockett, Natalia Ciolko and McKenna Ewen.

The morning started with a train ride from Osaka to the city of Kobe, where the first stop was the Disaster Reduction Institution, a museum dedicated to the 1995 earthquake in Kobe that killed more than 6,000 people in the city. The museum features video of the earthquake and demonstrations on the effects of magnitude, depth, building structure and information about emergency preparedness.

From the museum, the group took a local train into the city and ate lunch in Kobe’s Chinatown area. After lunch, everyone caught a bus to the port, where they took a 45-minute boat ride around Kobe Harbor. The ride included views of rainclouds and steam rolling over the surrounding mountains, and of the city’s impressive architecture.

A walking tour of the city commenced after the boat ride and ended at traditional Japanese restaurant. Thanks to their native Japanese friends who could read the menu, the group feasted on a meal including tofu and the world-famous Kobe beef.

Another train ride brought them back to Osaka, where it was time to pack for tomorrow’s adventures.
Monday’s schedule includes stops at Osaka Castle, Mainichi Broadcasting System (MBS), and a ride on the Tokaido Shinkansen, also known as the bullet train, to Tokyo and the beginning of the final leg of their Asian journey.

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June 21

Photo by Jessica Gall

Howard winners compare their fortunes with Dean Brad Hamm (background) and his wife, Osaka native Hiromi Sumiyoshi (right).

Konnichiwa!

The first full day in Japan started with a short train ride on the Japan Rail line from Osaka to the ancient city of Kyoto.

After arriving at very modern station, the group took taxis to some of the oldest shrines and temples in Japan. The first stop was at the Rokuon-ji Temple, famous for its Golden Pavilion, or Kinkaku. Rokuon-ji is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site and Kinkaku is painted in gold-leaf lacquer and has a Chinese phoenix statue perched on top of it. Kinkaku sits on a pond called Kyoko-chi, or mirror pond, while the entire temple is surrounded by greenery and streams.

After the stop at a Zen temple, it was time to check out the famous Zen rock garden. In the garden there are15 large rocks surrounded by carefully raked white gravel. The uniqueness of the garden lies in the fact that no matter where one sits outside of its rectangular frame, it is impossible to see all 15 rocks at once. Dean Hamm reminded the students that this is a good metaphor for journalism. While journalists try to report the truth as accurately as possible, one cannot see all sides of an issue from only one vantage point.

Photo by Jessica Gall

Students contemplate a Zen rock garden, where one cannot see all 15 rocks at one time.

After a traditional Japanese lunch sitting on the floor with shoes removed, the group ventured to a Shinto shrine. They saw a traditional Japanese wedding procession and also paid a small fee to get cards with their fortunes written on them. If they did not like their fortunes, they could leave it behind at the shrine by tying it to a tree, effectively leaving their bad luck behind them.

The day in Kyoto ended as it began with a train trip. Once back in Osaka, the group took the subway to the famous Namba district where bright lights, restaurants, stores and hundreds upon hundreds of people surrounded them.

Tomorrow will bring another excursion, this time to the city of Kobe, famous for its beef and also for the 1995 earthquake that killed over 6,000 people. While in Kobe, the students will visit a museum dedicated to natural disasters, take in some of the mountain scenery and partake in a few more Japanese meals.

Sayonara until tomorrow.

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June 20

Photo by Jessica Gall

The Namba district in Osaka, with its neon lights and bustling crowds, wowed the students.

Friday was a travel day for the Roy Howard winners. They left behind good times in Seoul for new adventures in Japan. The flight to Osaka landed in the Kansai Airport a little before 8 p.m., where the group met up with Dean Hamm’s wife, Osaka native Hiromi Sumiyoshi, who helped them navigate the bus system back to the Osaka Hilton.

After a brief orientation of the bustling and neon-lit streets, the group explored the huge underground mall below the city before heading back to the hotel to rest up for Saturday’s day trip to Kyoto, one of the world’s most famous sites with its Buddhist temples and Zen rock gardens.


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June 19

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On a clear day, you can see North Korea. But students encountered a hazy day. Their tour guide told them that there are over 25,000 statues of Kim Jung Il in North Korea, one of which is easily visible from the observatory on clear days.

Today, the group took a tour of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), the world’s most heavily guarded border put in place between North and South Korea in 1953 after the Korean War.

As part of the tour, the group went underground into a tunnel built by the North Koreans as a failed attempt to invade Seoul. They also visited the empty Dorasan Train Station waiting for unification of the two countries so that the trains have somewhere to go.

The thick haze in the air due to the rainy season prevented the group from getting a good view of North Korea; however, the Southern Limit Line and the Demarcation Line right in the middle of the DMZ were both visible.

The tour even included a stop at the Unification Village Supermarket where North Korean rice and beans (which are of high quality due to the rich soil in the area) were available for sale.

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At Seoul Tower, lovers leave padlocks in the fence, according to local lore. Members of the Howard group visited on their last night in Seoul.

The tour ended in the Itaewon area, where a U.S. military presence and knock-off versions of many expensive brand name items are for sale, such as fake Coach purses, Burberry scarves and Rolex watches. After a little browsing and shopping, the group learned how to navigate the Seoul subway despite not being able to read Korean and made its way back to the hotel.

The last night in Seoul involved another traditional dinner of kimchi (pickled cabbage) and bibimbap (rice, vegetables and meat or seafood mixed with fried egg). After dinner, the winners walked a couple miles to take a cable car up to the top of Seoul Tower overlooking the capital city.

At the top there were hundreds and hundreds of padlocks around the cables surrounding the observation decks, supposedly left by locals as symbols of love.

Tomorrow, it will be time to say "annyeong-hi gyeseyo" to Korea and "konnichi wa" to Japan.



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June 18

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Howard winners and escorts weathered rain to view Mt. Bugksan (background) and the changing of the guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Wednesday was a wet day for the Roy W. Howard contest winners, but while the rain drenched their clothes it did little to their dampen their spirits.

The first stop on Wednesday was the historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, only a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Students witnessed the changing of the guard, donned traditional dress themselves for photos and saw Mt. Bugksan with steam rising from it due to the rain.

While at the palace, the group visited the National Folk Museum of Korea before heading back for a traditional Korean lunch of bibimbap (a hot mixture of rice and vegetables with a fried egg on top).

After refueling on bibimbap, the group visited the Ubiquitous Dream Hall, a prototypical house of the future. They saw how robots, touch screens, RFID trackers and bioidentification technology may be incorporated into everyday life in the near future.

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Howard winners checked out a robot and other technology at the Ubiquitous Dream Hall, an exposition space in Seoul.

Once they were done playing with robots, the group ventured to the plaza in front of City Hall, where demonstrators have spent the last 50 days protesting the South Korean government’s move to allow imports of U.S. beef.

Next, everyone went to the Myeondong shopping district near the famous Lotte department store. Here, street vendors sell all types of meats and even waffles near the stores and restaurants popular with the younger crowds.

Thursday morning, the group plans to check out the river area before departing on a half-day trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) that separates South and North Korea.



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June 17

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Howard winners and fellow travelers try Korean cuisine at a restaurant near the KSB headquarters.

At 9 a.m., the group met two journalism graduate students from Korea University who escorted everyone to the Korea Broadcasting System building via the very clean, fast and smooth Seoul subway system. The students received a guided tour through KBS’s Exhibition Hall as well as some of its television talk show sets, the costume storage room and the concert hall.

While at KBS, they practiced their anchoring skills, gave a weather report in front of a blue screen and watched a 3D film, complete with 3D glasses, highlighting KBS’ programming. The station is the largest public television station in Korea and produces sitcoms, dramas, comedy shows, animation, live concerts and news.

After the tour, the Korean graduate students lead the group to an authentic Korean restaurant for some naengmyeon, also known as cold noodle soup. The soups were served in stainless steel bowls and stainless steel chopsticks for eating. The Americans faired well with the utensils and sampled one of Korea’s favorite foods, kimchi (pickled cabbage).

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Howard winners Julia Wong and McKenna Ewen practice their anchoring skills in the KBS exhibition hall.

Once everyone was full, it was time for the next media visit at the Chosunilbo Daily, the largest newspaper in Korea. While there, the students toured the U Media Lab and its cutting edge technology. They met the managing editor for a question and answer session.

Everyone took a quick break at the hotel, then met with more Korean University friends as well as a couple of IU School of Journalism alumni, Auh Taik Sup and Kim Sung-Tae. The entire group feasted on Japanese food at a restaurant nearby the hotel and learned about Korean culture from their Korean hosts.

Still recovering from the jet lag, some members of the group retired to the hotel while the more adventurous ones went to sing karaoke with their new Korean friends. Wednesday’s planned activities include a visit to a palace, the House of the Future and other cultural sites around Seoul.

June 15-16

The Roy W. Howard National Collegiate Reporting Competition winners and escorts gathered in the O’Hare Hilton Hotel lobby at 10 a.m. Saturday morning to begin the long journey to Seoul. The 12:15 p.m. flight from Chicago to Tokyo on Japan Airlines left at 1:15p.m. CST and arrived in Tokyo at 2p.m., June 16, as the flight took them across the International Date Line.

After a layover in the Tokyo Narita Airport, it was time for the flight to Seoul’s Icheon Airport, located an hour’s drive from downtown Seoul. The weary travelers arrived at the Best Western New Seoul at 11:45p.m. and quickly made their ways to their rooms for some sleep.

June 14, 2008

All of the Roy W. Howard national reporting competition winners arrived Saturday in Chicago for introductions and a travel orientation session. The students met for dinner at the Chicago hotel and talked for a few hours.

The group will meet Sunday morning for airport check-in. The Japan Airlines flight to Tokyo’s Narita Airport leaves at 12:15 p.m. The flight will take approximately 12 hours and 45 minutes.

The group will spend a few hours in the airport before boarding a 6:05 p.m. flight to Seoul’s Incheon Airport.

After arriving in Seoul at 8:40, the students will go through immigration and customs and then take an airport shuttle bus to downtown (near City Hall), where their hotel is located.

The time difference in Korea and Japan is 13 hours ahead compared to the East Coast.

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